Alternative fibres in denim open a material development question: what should change in the product, and which fibre or yarn construction can help achieve it? A new ingredient becomes useful when its role in the finished fabric is clear.
Two Italian examples approach this question from different directions. Berto’s MUSA project explores an abaca and cotton blend, while Candiani’s COREVA technology addresses the elastic component of stretch denim. They illustrate different development choices rather than interchangeable solutions.
Abaca denim: adding another natural fibre to the blend
MUSA, developed by Berto with Bananatex®, combines organic cotton and abaca in a range of denim fabrics. Abaca comes from Musa textilis, a plant in the banana family grown for its fibre. Calling it banana-peel denim would misrepresent the material.
Berto describes a development process involving yarn, blend, weave, colour and finishing decisions. The company also reports that denim from the collaboration appears in Fendi’s Autumn–Winter 2026–27 collection. This is an example of material research reaching a luxury collection, rather than evidence that the same material suits every product. Source: Berto — MUSA by Berto × Bananatex®.
Natural rubber stretch denim: rethinking the elastic yarn
Candiani’s COREVA uses a natural rubber yarn in place of synthetic petroleum-based stretch yarns. Candiani dates the technology to 2020, so it should be understood as an established innovation being developed further, rather than a new invention in 2026.
The company describes the fabric as plastic-free and compostable, and identifies specific test methods for its compostability assessment. Those statements concern the supplier’s defined material and test scope. They should not be applied automatically to a complete garment assembled with other components. Source: Candiani — COREVA.
Start with the product requirement, then evaluate the material
For a brand, the useful first step is to define the desired result: a distinctive surface, a particular hand, a different stretch construction or another clearly stated requirement. Ask the fabric supplier how the proposed material addresses that requirement.
As a development recommendation, compare the actual fabric specification and finished samples. Depending on intended use, the evaluation may include dimensional stability, strength, colourfastness and, for stretch products, extension and recovery. Agree the relevant methods and acceptance criteria with the development team.
Review processing, care and commercial practicality
A material needs a viable route from sample to production. Confirm suitable processing conditions, care instructions, availability, order quantities and lead times for the selected fabric article. Record any restrictions that affect the garment design or finishing brief.
Keep the evaluation focused on the fabric being purchased. A property associated with a raw fibre does not establish the performance of every blend, weave or finished garment made with it.
Consider the whole garment before describing its end of life
The shell fabric is one part of a garment specification. Sewing thread, labels, fasteners, supporting materials and treatments also need consideration when assessing a proposed recycling or composting route.
Ask what was tested, under which conditions and whether the result applies to the raw material, fabric or complete product. This is particularly important when translating a supplier’s technical description into a consumer-facing claim.
Use material innovation to build a more distinctive collection
The lesson from these Italian examples is to begin with a deliberate material choice and develop the product around it. Novelty can create interest; a clear purpose, suitable construction and evaluated samples make the idea ready for a sourcing discussion.